I’ve finished my series about ballasting at the Scratchbuilder’s Guild. Have a look at it with this link and let me know what you think.
The next step will be the grass, bushes, and other scenic details. Once these are done things should blend together and look a whole lot better.
Later!
Scott
Well folks, Ron Pare invited me to be a contributing author over at the Scratchbuilder’s Guild. I must say that I was flattered by the request. I did have a concern that the BS&T blog might suffer because of it, or that I might not put my best effort into the Guild. After some consideration I think I can do both without taking away from either blog. So, I’ll be writing how-to’s and kit reviews for the Guild, and link to them from here. I’ll still post BS&T updates and operations reports here as I’ve always done.
My first assignment, that I chose from a list of possibilities, was to do a series on scenery. Since I was at the scenery stage in Derwin’s Drop I thought that would be a good one to start with. My first topic is ballasting – how to go from this…
to this (the glue is still wet)…
So drop by the Scratchbuilder’s Guild to read about Ballasting Your Layout.
Scott
I’ve been using a different method, for me anyway, for roads on the BS&T.
On my old layout I used a lot of plaster to build up streets and roads. It was a lot of work to try to get them smooth enough to resemble a road. Then if something happened to chip the plaster you have an odd coloured pothole.
So, I used a tip I read on Harold Minkwitz’s web site (Inpirations – Dirt Roads, Bushes, and Grass). He uses 1/8″ craft foam for streets. You’ve likely seen examples of these streets in other posts on the BS&T Blog.
One of the best uses of this product is for grade crossings. The foam is the same thickness as code 100 rail (sorry for all you more scale conscious model railroaders using smaller rail <wink>) so it makes perfect grade crossings. All you need to do is hold the foam in place and run a sharp knife along the rail to get a perfect fit. Anywhere you need a gap for wheel flanges just trim the foam a little narrower.
This grade crossing (below) in Derwin’s Drop would have been almost impossible to do with plaster. I wouldn’t have even attempted it. But I did this the other evening in about 20 minutes.
The wheel flange clearance may be a little tight, but the foam gives enough that I don’t think it’ll give me any trouble. I ran an S-4 through this about 10 times, at different speeds from a crawl to normal speed, without a hitch.
I’m going to try Harold’s method of making old cracked pavement in this area. He applies a thin layer of coloured plaster over the foam, paints it to simulate old asphalt, then presses on it causing the plaster to crack. Instant stress cracks. Then pick a few pieces out to make potholes.
Later,
Scott
